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“…My God, it’s full of stars…”

By on June 14, 2012 in craft, darkroom work, Greece, Paros, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, working

Anyone reading this has a chance to win a free cup of coffee or tea at Mikro Cafe on Paros if they can guess the movie the above quote is from.  This was my reaction after walking back to the port last night after dinner.  I ate in Chora at a lovely little place called ‘Karavomypos’.  It is not quite traditional Greek, but it has taken some Greek ideas and spun them into something quite good.  I started with louloudakia, zucchini flowers stuffed with rice and then fried.  They were served with a mayonnaise style sauce.  Very tasty.  The entree was grilled pork tenderloin with a side of oven roasted potatoes seasoned with garlic and oregano.  Also very good.  For dessert I had a small plate of cherry spoon sweets, a fruit conserve in sugar syrup. Yum!  An excellent meal and I highly recommend the restaurant to anyone coming to Serifos.  They are only open for dinner.

 

Mamiya c330 and a view of Chora, Serifos

On the walk back down the hill to Livadia (4km) I chose ‘The Stairs’ a broad rambling staircase leading back down to the port.  It only took me 25 minutes in the dark but the way was lit pretty well most of the time.  I did have to be careful and I did take a wrong turn once in a while but I figured that as long as I was heading downhill I was alright.  At one point during the walk home I chanced to look up.  There were few lights where I was and I had not seen so many stars since I was in the fields behind my mother’s house in New York.  It was inspiring and so that line from the movie…

I hit the beach early this morning (07:30)  and sat on the sand as the sun warmed the earth.  It was lovely, and quiet, the water still as glass.  As I dove in I was surprised how warm it had become since yesterday, but then I remembered that I was on a different side of the island.  I basked in the sunlight, drying off slowly, swam some more and then headed off in my Suzuki jeep to take pictures.  I was able to shoot a whole roll of 120 in one area, documenting some walls and part of a donkey path.  I was grateful once again for four-wheel-drive as the road to and from the site was very steep and made of sliding gravel.  Bravo Vitara!  I continued and stopped at the Monastary of Taxiarchis (Archangel Michael), a beautiful 15th century structure still in use.  It has served the island well as a fortress against raiding pirates and a spiritual center. By 11:00 the temperature risen to an unbearable heat and I pulled into Chora and sat at a cafe, ordering a espresso freddo and a water.  As I cooled off under the pergola I realized that my day nay have to be cut short.  I had been up since 07:00, tramping about in the bush and although I had stayed hydrated the dryness of the climate had worn me out.  i went back to my hotel and relaxed until 15:30 when I went back to the each and lazed about until 18:00.  Then I came back to the hotel and showered, lay down and slept until 20:45.  I went out, ate dinner (review tomorrow) and here I am back at the keyboard.  It is just after midnight and I am seeing the end of my island hopping. In two days I head to Sifnos where there are few beaches to write about but much in the way of local color and sights to see.  I go home to Paros next Tuesday and it will be good to be back.  I miss the friends I have there and am growing tired of eating dinner by myself all the time.  The locals begin to look at you funny…

JDCM

Serifos, first impressions…

By on June 13, 2012 in craft, darkroom work, Greece, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, Uncategorized, working

After the busy-ness of Milos, I boarded my beloved Aqua Jewel and headed north to Serifos for another 3-4 day stay on that little island.  I had been told by one Greek person that Serifos “was spoiled”.  I am not sure what she meant but I have found the exact opposite to be true.  This is a charming place; rugged, undeveloped in the ways of other islands and, in the words of another friend, like Greece was many years ago.  Yes, there are tourists, but not so many.  There are boats in the harbor, but again, not so many.  It is, in some ways, similar to a little backwater town that is somewhere off the tourist maps.  I mean this in a good way.  The locals are very hospitable, the food is tasty and the beaches are lovely.  I spent the early morning and mid-afternoon on a quiet beach called Vagia (vay-ya)on the island’s southern side.  There was no one there the entire time. This may to do with the month since June is not the high season for them, but in reality I needed my little Suzuki Vitara to get down to the sand.  Also, there is no public transport so you must drive there.  It is too far to walk and the heat even at 10:00hrs grows oven-like.  In any case, I swam and basked in the sun for a while, then did some crunches, my bicycle pumps and some stretches before having another swim, drying off in the sun and heading back off to take some pictures.

One of my favorite subjects is old equipment left over from the influx of humans and their work.  Like Milos, Serifos was heavily mined, but only since 1885.  The mines closed in 1963 and what is left is fascinating.  Ore carts, tracks, trucks, buildings, machinery of all sorts lay scattered around parts of the island, primarily in Mega Livadi and Koutalos.  I am enthralled by this milieu as it always reminds me of the poem ‘Ozymandias’ by Percy Bysshe Shelley.  These wrecks of industry lying powerless among the thorns, rocks and heat are a reminder of the futility of mankind’s hollow greed and hubris.  Someday when the human species has disappeared from the face of the Earth, the Earth will swallow the remains, turning them back into the minerals and metals from which they came.  We all return to the Earth, it seems, even our tools.  This may sound bleak but I find great comfort in knowing that the Earth is a more powerful force than we are.  It keeps me right-sized.  As a photographer I find endless textures and shades of color in these objects and they contain a beauty all their own.  I had to do some hiking to get the images I wanted but these places are not roped off and are safe to approach as long as one uses common sense and simple caution.

My hotel is situated on the peralia, the strip of road the runs along the half-moon of the natural harbor.  The Hotel Maistrali is a clean, neat place and the owner Bobbi is a charming host.  We have already had conversations concerning politics, mining, and Serifian history. He has looked at the map with me and told me of the high and low points to see and avoid.  Not much to avoid, but still…I found his place via another travel website which is also a wealth of Greek information.  I am here for another two full days and am looking forward to more photography, more beach time and general sightseeing.  Tonight I will have dinner in the chora, the older town up on the hillside overlooking the harbor.

JDCM

On my way again…

By on June 12, 2012 in craft, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, working

 

My new clock

I had forgotten the joys of the open road after living on Paros for such a long time. True, the occasional trip to Athens took the edge off of staying put, but when I began traveling back in 2005 I was always exhilarated by what was around the bend or over the next hill.  I have missed this.  I seem to have found it again in this little island hopping adventure on which I am currently engaged.  First, the ferry schedule mix-up on Ios readjusted me to the realities of the road (or sea, as it were) then, as a result of the schedule changes not only did I spend a lovely day on that island but I was “forced” into coming to Milos, an island not originally on the agenda.  I am very happy that this occurred.  I have had a lovely time here and met some of the nicest people.  Let’s face it, the Greeks are the nicest bunch of folks I have ever met anyway so this is saying a lot.  The beaches, the food and the accommodations were all top notch in my book.  I stayed at a nice place, just off of the port called “Aphrodite of Milos Hotel Apartments.”  The owner, Nikos Mathioudakis is a charming host and was willing to talk about his joys and troubles in the same breath.  He was also able to help me with a small load of laundry and send an important  fax to America.  All of this he did without charge. Ephcharisto para poli Niko!

This morning I was up at 07:00 and out the door with my camera, tripod and a towel.  I stopped at the old salt factory on the edge of town and finished up my shoot there, which makes for 5 rolls of Plus-X exposed on Milos. I have 9 rolls left and I am pretty sure I can use them up on Serifos and Sifnos.  This will make me happy.  After the shoot I went down to a nice sandy beach for an early morning swim.  The water was perfect and as the sun rose above the craggy rocks I walked along the edge of the sea to dry off.  Then, of course I had to swim some more and then walk around again.  I decided to do some stretches and crunches so I did about 50 of those and then, yes, I had another swim.  At that point it was edging up to 09:00 and almost time to drop off my reliable Fiat Panda at Nikos Rentals here in Adamas.  So I walked around some more, dried off, got dressed and headed back to the road where I had left the Fiat.  As I drove back into town I was full of gratitude to be able to be living this life.  Truly amazing.  I checked out of the hotel and wished Niko good luck for the summer.  When I come back to Milos I will stay there again.

I have a few hours until the NEL Aqua Jewel arrives to take me to Serifos and I am sitting in the Puerto Snack Bar, immediately adjacent to the port.  It is a decent place and actually only serves Greek fare in the evenings when they make kalamakia but during the day it is more western: hamburgers, cheeseburgers, hot dogs, panini, salads, etc…Excellent espresso freddo, by the way, and lots of shade.  It is just after 11:00 and it is already very hot.  Poli zesty!   If the boat arrives on time (14:05) then I should be on Serifos round 17:30, I think.   No matter, however, since I am on a different kind of schedule that pays less attention to timetables and emphasizes the unknown journey over the wine dark sea.

Ios, plans and changing with the wind…

By on June 8, 2012 in craft, Greece, Paros, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, Uncategorized, working

I am taking some time off and hopping about the Cyclades Archipelago for a week or so.  I think I mentioned that in an earlier post.  Before I left Paros I had checked some ferry schedules and I had set my plan thus: Ios for a night then an early ferry to Serifos the next day then a few days on that island then Sifnos, then back to Paros.  The best laid plans of mice and men, indeed.  Apparently I misheard the ferry schedule and the boat to Serifos left the same morning I arrived on Ios, so I had to shift my sails.  This is the new plan:  Ios, then the afternoon boat to Milos where I will stay until Tuesday and then go to Serifos for three or four days and then Sifnos afterwards.  I have had to extend my hop and added Milos, but such is life.  I could not have done it without the help of the good people at Acteon Travel in Ios.  Thank you Calliope, Theodora and Themos.  They proved the point that there are always solutions to what I may think are dire problems.  The upside is that have been able to see some interesting sites here on Ios.  There are no downsides. I drove out to Homer’s grave, visited the Paleokastro in the mountains and had a short swim on a deserted stretch of beach in Psathi.  I ate dinner last night at a small taverna at the very top of the chora called ‘The Mills’.  Excellent chorta, revithiokeftedes, spitted lamb, tzatziki and fried potatoes.  I highly recommend the place.

From Ios I can see Santorini to the south and Paros, Andiparos and Naxos to the north.  The terrain here reminds me of the Naxian interior and is very rugged and unbuilt.  Goats, donkeys and cows roam the twisty mountain roads, gnawing on the rough foliage.  The stonework of the walls that make up the terrace farms is also very different than on Paros and Naxos.  The material here tends to be more flat and sedimentary and as a result the walls are wider and flatter than those made with chunky bits of marble or limestone karst.  I have exposed roll of Plus-X with my Mamiya c330 and I hope to continue this while I am on my hop.

As I sit in the port of Ios at the Remezzo Cafe (free WiFi) I am surrounded by travelers waiting for the next high-speed boat to wherever, maybe Naxos or Milos, or perhaps Pireaus.  I had a nice chat with Themos this morning before I rented my little Fiat Panda.  We talked of reincarnation, the changeless quality of travel and why we love it and how beautiful the world can be if we just slow down and let our lives run on a different kind of schedule, one not dictated by our minds and wallets but rather our hearts and souls.  This from the guy who rented me a car…

More to come…JDCM

 

Showtime at the Aegean Center for the Fine Arts…

By on June 2, 2012 in craft, darkroom work, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, Uncategorized, working

It is showtime tonight and the student exhibit is up, ready to be viewed by the public.  We have cleaned the school, hung the paintings, drawings and photographs with care and pride and have cleaned our respective studios.  These will be open to the public as well so, like those before me, I have arranged some paintings and hung some of my better drawings on the wall in a display.  My paints are out so that others may see the limited pallet that has provided so much color for the past three months.  It is a very pretty show and reflects hard work on all of our parts during what was, at least for me, a very difficult and trying session.  The mid-session stroke that left my photography teacher partially paralyzed threw a real monkey wrench into my thinking, but I pulled through as did others.  We have learned in proportion to how we have participated and that will always be true no matter how much or how well we age.

There are several alumni here this week which makes for fun times.  One is a young woman who I had a particularly difficult time with last spring.  She believed I had fallen in love with her when a simple gift of farewell and good luck was misinterpreted as something more.  I have decided that being friendly and supportive is a better path than being withdrawn and sullen.  This is a very Greek cycle.  It has been year since the incident occurred so I suppose it is time to the let the water go from under the bridge, over the damn and back out to sea.

Speaking of paths…Another alum is here and next week see begins her journey along the Camino de Santiago, walking the 790 km French route from Pied-de-Port, France to Castello de Santiago, Spain.  I have left the hyper-link for a reason. Follow it and find out what it is if you do not already know.  I have made it a goal to walk this route in the fall of 2013.  Yes, more than a year away, but I have goals to achieve before that in my photography.  I’ll talk about that later…

More to come.

JDCM

Final week of work and wrapping it up for the term…

By on May 27, 2012 in craft, darkroom work, Greece, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, Uncategorized

My painting is all but finished and I have only to matte the 10 darkroom pieces I have made this term.  That may not seem like a lot, but the class time for painting has been an enormous commitment.  Two different drawing classes, the painting classes and time outside of class to finish my work in a timely fashion.  It has been an adventure but one I am not rushing to repeat.  I liked painting and did well, but it took so much time away from my photography that I feel I have let myself down a little in that department.  Call it a sabbatical of sorts, or a journey into a new way of seeing light, but I will stick to my cameras from now on.  I feel better with a good lens and a roll of 100ISO film.  The fall, I hope, will be a better reflection of that.

After next weekend I am taking off for a week or so and do some solo island hopping.  The nearby islands are easy to get to and will make for a nice change from Paros.  Sifnos, Serafos, Komilos, Milos, etc…They all wait for me.

JDCM

Photography, painting, crunch-time, stress and beauty…

By on May 9, 2012 in 4×5 photography, craft, darkroom work, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, working

My 4×5 work is turning into something more than I imagined.  What started out as portraits of artists in their studios has turned into images of the people I know or have become friends with over the past two years here on Paros.  Artists, students, shop owners, cafe proprietors are all part of the parade.  It is a lovely mix of personalities and a small documentary of those around me.  My ability with the 4×5 has increased as well, especially when I view the images I made last spring.

This change is also apparent in my painting.  The first painting and drawings I made at the beginning of the term do not compare to what I am capable of now.  I can look at almost any object, person or still life and know exactly how to go about drawing it, giving it depth and space and setting it into a place with a relative weight.  This is truly astounding.  This has also been a experiment.  In grade school I was told by my teachers that I could not draw or paint anything realistic.  As a young and impressionable child I believed them and stayed away from this art for over 40 years.  I have now proved them wrong and there is a certain kind of satisfaction in this.  It reminds me that a teacher should never treat a child in negative way.  To them all things are possible.

We have 23 days until the show and I am stressed.  Yes, I am sure all will be done, but it will be a tough road.  My darkroom work needs to be finished sooner rather than later and my digital along with it.  It is the painting that will take the time.  The paint needs 4-5 days to dry before we hang so that cuts that time down to 18 days.  Subtract the 4 days I will be in Athens next week and that leaves just two weeks of painting.  I can do it, I know I can.  I have a whole bunch of teachers to prove wrong.

The light is stunning and clear, the sunsets are magical and the cool night air rings with sounds of the sea.  Our hikes have been exhilarating and refreshing and an antidote for the stress of these past weeks.  The exercise clears my head and the light and perfumes of the wild island interior acts as aromatherapy for my aching mind.  Beautiful indeed.

 

Turbulence, shifts and changes…

By on April 15, 2012 in 4×5 photography, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, working

Easter has come and gone here on Paros and the symbolic nature of “from the darkness comes the light” is not lost on me or, indeed, many of us here at the Aegean Center.  It has been a difficult week personally and artistically and, for the faculty, professionally.  Last Friday one of our core instructors suffered a stroke.  Luckily she was able to be airlifted off the island and was in an Athens hospital within 5 hours of the event.  In the 9 days since she has made great strides in recovery, siga-siga of course, but great strides nonetheless.  She is talking, eating, sitting up and some feeling has returned to nerve damaged limbs.  Here at school the reaction of the students and faculty has been strong and supportive.  There have been moments of great calm and moments of emotional over-compensation, but that is to be expected.  This kind of event can scare anyone.  I have faith in the process, however, and feel that what needs to be done will happen and that everything is exactly the way it is supposed to be.  This can be a hard reality to grasp, but in my experience it is the truth.

A good friend and I were having dinner the other night and she spoke of an element of Chaos Theory that proposes that all systems, whether biological, social or psychological, undergo a period of Chaos before their next great evolutionary leap.  Perhaps this is what I am witnessing both here on Paros, in Greece and the world as a whole.  Currently the Earth seems to be shifting on its social axis, tipping the scales to what seems like a point of no return.  Is this true or are these just the growing pains if a young species on a much older planet?  Are we suffering the same Chaos in the macro as occurs constantly in the micro?  Is the actual Design of Everything a fractal equation, repeating itself ad infinitum, identical on any scale?  This is a very logical image and one put forth by both mystics and quantum physicists throughout the years.  Is the suffering and recovery of one person a micro-mirror image of the constant shift and turbulent change we are witness to globally?  For me, I will continue on my charted course, adjusting my theoretical sails when I find it necessary to do so.  Some might say this is not thinking outside the box.  Some others might say this is the best course possible for it allows for changes to be made within the eye of the Chaotic hurricane rather than having Chaotic winds drive one’s direction.  I’ll stick with the second camp.  Time will reveal the winner, if there is such a thing.  In my heart, however, I will have the strength of integral values stronger than any trend or fad and which affords me more artistic balance.

Siga-siga: slowly-slowly.

JDCM

Here at Mikro Cafe…

By on April 2, 2012 in 4×5 photography, craft, darkroom work, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, working

“Latte, please,” JDCM said.  Colin stands behind the bar, talking of his love of chewing on coffee beans.  Fresh from his bi-athalon on Naxos, he is feeling sprightly and full of energy.  He was able to shave off 6 seconds from the last event of this type so that’s a win and new personal best…Bravo Colin!

On other notes my portrait sessions have begun and I have photographed one student, the artist Jackie Massari and one of the instructors, the painter Jun-Pierre Shiozawa.  I hope to work with Colin Brown and his wife Stella later this week, perhaps Wednesday afternoon.  Couples are more difficult than single subjects, but I hope to work this out.  I’ll do some research on the subject so I can get some ideas first.

Other students are using the studio as well which is a good thing, and I am eager to see their work.  My painting is moving along and I am getting the hang of glazing, scumbling and the balance of colors.  We are still using a limited pallet and I understand why.  I am champing at the bit, however, to open up the brighter, more vibrant hues and work them in.  This will come with time.

Weather still fine, cool at night, etc…

JDCM

Painting, portraits and 4×5 photography…

By on March 26, 2012 in 4×5 photography, craft, darkroom work, Greece, Paros, silver darkroom, skill and craft, spring in the Aegean, Uncategorized, working

The Fayum portrait I am copying

I have discovered an excitement and love of painting.  That is the only way to describe how I feel.  Using this medium to see light as opposed to the photographic process is a joy.  Although I tend to be a ‘fast’ painter, the inevitability of having to let paint dry keeps me from getting to far ahead of myself.  We are still engaged in tonal studies, but have branched out into some color variations based on ‘hot’ and ‘cool’.  Very interesting.   We have also begun the ‘Fayum’ process as well and using the tetrachromy is a challenging form that dates back to the beginnings of the Common Era (30 ACE to the 3rd century).  Art historians believe that these colors are actually the four used by the Greeks in the 4th an 5th centuries BCE and reference the four elements.  The spiritual aspect of this intrigues me.  The Fayum portraits themselves seem to have survived purely by chance while only written descriptions exist of the height of Greek painting from the classical age.  As a student of history I am happy to be looking at this course from both an artistic and academic point of view.

This afternoon I cleaned up the light studio and set up the four studio lights and scrims we use here at the Aegean Center.  This means that I can begin my portrait work this week, I hope.  I will use my 4×5 camera and produce images similar to the portraits made in the late 19th century.  The lighting will be dramatic and raking, borrowing  more from the style of Rembrandt than anything else.  My subjects will be students and locals and will be both an important part of my portfolio and my learning curve.  This vision may change, of course and I may find I like the open studio light concept better than the drama.  The composition will be head and shoulders only, 3/4 view or something like that.  We shall see…

JDCM