Archive | bike touring in Ireland

Riding a learning curve…

The weather these past few weeks on Paros has been luscious. Comfortably dry nights and days that soothe the soul like a tropical compress. I guess I should talk a bit about Ireland. But first, a disclaimer: I knew what I was getting into. I knew it would rain a lot. I had been to Ireland a few times before-hand. None of this was particularly novel. There were few surprises. I chose this route for a first long-distance ride for pragmatic reasons–ease of language, availability of services and to discover if I enjoyed long-distance bicycling…and as learning curves go, I learned a lot, but not what I expected.

The bicycling itself was quite easy. I had already practiced a bit here on Paros, so I knew what it was like to ride 70km on a bicycle weighing 50 kilos. I had ridden up and down hills already on the treacherously questionable roads of Paros. Imagine my joy at the roads of Ireland–smooth, well-paved, clean and, until I reached County Antrim, free of potholes. So riding 50-80 km a day on the bike was not difficult. The hills and “mountains” of Counties Cork, Kerry, Galway, etc…not so tough. What was difficult was Day #4, when I woke up and realized I had to ride another day. And then Day #5 when I was resigned to my fate. After that I rarely thought about where I was going or how far I needed to ride that day. I had established my routine. When it was raining I packed up the tent and rode in the rain. There was no other choice. As I remarked to someone in Donegal Town, “If I didn’t ride in the rain I’d still be in Cork City.”

The Dawes Karakum in the shade of the tamarisk trees.
It is a much happier bicycle here on Paros.

And it rained a lot. Sometimes three times a day. Mostly on me. I got wet. I didn’t melt. I dried out. I rode the kilometres I needed to and then I was done. I saw some beautiful sights–dramatic cliffs all along the coasts; sudden bursts of sunlight that made the landscape glisten and sparkle jewel-like…it’s all there. You can have it. I have learned there is no need for me to return. Rain is one thing, but every day, twice, thrice a day…no thank you. Such was the learning curve. You’ll have to pay me to go back. And that old saying about “the soft Irish rain…” Bullshit. It’s rain.

I missed Greece every day. I missed the food, the people, the climate. The food in Ireland is alright. Not great, really, yet ideal for the weather that one is forced to endure. Heavy, thick stuff, devoid of fresh produce (except potatoes). Mussels cooked in milk (yuck!), a severe lack of garlic and tomatoes that would be best used to repair dry-wall. I missed the heat of summer, the boiled-honey sun glazing the earth in late July through August, the din of the cicadas. By the 2/3 mark, the rain was not so much an obstacle but rather a tedious bore, a meteorological raconteur drawing out the same dull tale. I doubt the temperature ever rose above 22C while I was there. I missed the 35-40C days here on Paros. I missed the people I know, I missed my friends, my parea. This was the learning curve I traveled.

I enjoyed the long-distance bike tour. I enjoyed the hills, the distances. But I knew that going in. I had researched enough before hand and was prepared regarding gear. Everything I brought with me, I used. My kit was sound: waterproof, windproof, serviceable, warm and dry. My Dawes Karakum was the right bike for the job and I enjoyed riding it. I brought it home with me to Paros where I use it throughout the week. I am already looking at next year’s ride. I will stay in Greece, a country I love and in actuality have seen very little. I will ride in May so I don’t miss my summer heat and early morning swims. I will ride for a month because I can ride 2000km in that time. I will ride into the mountains northwest of Athens, to Corfu. Then east through the Pindus to Ioannina and Meteora. South to Trikala…these will be the places I visit. It will rain some but that’s ok. I won’t melt. But I will never leave home.

–JDCM

Counting down the days…

In just over a month (32 days) I will be heading off to Ireland, land of my birth, for a 2-month bicycle tour of the west coast and the north. I have written about it before, so I won’t bore you with those details again. I am very excited and, although I have been consulting maps, arranging for camping, BnB and hotels, marking my routes like a good Aquarian (we are highly organized and thrive within structure), I am quite sure many things will be different once I am on the ground and riding. So I’ll keep an open mind.

The weather will be interesting, and I am prepared for rain with enough Gore-Tex to cover myself, and the bike if need be. I am expecting daily rain, not necessarily torrential downpours, but sometimes maybe that too. As one very experienced touring-bicyclist mentioned in his blog, when it rains, you ride anyway.

I recently took a long weekend to another island and did a little bike-packing just to see how it was traveling for long distances with all the gear, making camp, etc…Although the geography was different and the weather more so, I learned some important lessons. The most relevant is that I am not longer in my 20s and the romance of wild camping really has lost its charm. Sleeping on the ground is a pain. Literally. As someone in their mid-50s, I will do a little wild camping, but the majority of my camping in Ireland will be in organized or semi-organized sites that provide showers, laundry, electrical hook-ups, sanitary facilities, etc…a couple even have cafes. I like my creature comforts. I have booked a few BnB stays and also a few actual hotels (Dingle, Donegal Town, Kinvara, etc…) for more than one night. Yes, there are a couple of places where I am kind of forced to find a spot off the road for the night, but even then I am waiting to see what happens. You never know. The kindness of strangers.

The 1st stage, from Cork to Limerick. Counties Cork, Kerry, Clare.
Stage 2, the road to Galway City (Barna Road) Counties Clare and Galway.
Counties Galway, Mayo and Sligo–stage 3
Counties Sligo, Leitrim, Donegal. Stage 4.

The first stage (Map 1) will be, by necessity, the fastest part of the trip. Although I am sure West Cork, Kerry, etc…are beautiful, it will also be the most touristic section. I will have to be extra careful of traffic on little roads. I am also riding 100km days (6-7 hours of riding) for the first week. I want to be off of the Ring of Kerry by August 1st. The second stage (Map 2) will be slightly less difficult, with some chill 60-70km days with a couple of 100km days mixed in. I am meeting a friend in Galway for a long weekend (August 9), so that is a date I have to make. The third stage, through Northern Galway and most of Mayo will be more relaxed still. The tourists will mostly be left behind, the tourist season will be slowing down and the roads will be a little more wild, a little more quiet.

By the time I get to Donegal Town, it will be the end of August, the end of the tourist season and I won’t need to make a lot of reservations before hand. I have learned this from different people I have already spoken to on the telephone in Donegal. In fact, by the time I get to Donegal I will have 25 days left to cycle about 600km. Do the math. I can dawdle.

This is all the Big Plan. What it is actually going to be like on the ground will be something else. I know I can do the distances. I know I can make the waypoints. It’s just a matter of doing it. I will be using Instagram as a platform for ‘blogging’, so to speak, with more pictures than text. So keep up with me through Instagram.

For now…I think that’s it.

–JDCM